Organic cotton from cultivation project in Kyrgyzstan

Cultivation Project: Kyrgyzstan

Supporting Organic Farmers

In light of further tightening of certification guidelines by GOTS and EU Organic, the economic situation for organic cotton farmers – particularly smallholders – has, in some cases, deteriorated dramatically worldwide. The entire organic cotton market, and therefore Cotonea too, is feeling the effects. As a result, our long-standing partner cooperatives in both Kyrgyzstan and Uganda have decided to withdraw from GOTS due to the high additional costs of certification. We at Cotonea are currently assessing how to deal with this changed situation in line with our corporate values. At the same time, we are in discussions with new, certified suppliers. We will keep you updated on further developments.
More background information is available here.

In 2004, the Swiss development organisation Helvetas launched the production and marketing of organic cotton in Kyrgyzstan. Cotonea is a key partner in the project in Jalalabad and purchases the majority of the harvest. In 2014, this amounted to 820 tonnes, with the yield of pure cotton fibres accounting for around one third of that figure.

Also in Kyrgyzstan (officially the Kyrgyz Republic) the cotton is picked by hand. Since changing to certified organic cotton in 2005, nearly all of the entire cotton of the project of the Swiss development organisation Helvetas goes to Cotonea.

In front of her yurt, this farmer has set up a simple sales stand, a metal table with a simple table top. There is water, filled into bottles, yoghurt balls and Boorsok, the traditional, deep-fried pastry.

A handsome, healthy horse secures a modest level of prosperity. It is a means of transportation, that is happy to consume the fuel from the farmers own cultivation. This is lucky, because petrol and diesel are rare commodities.

A quick visit to the farmer with the highest yields and his wife. If you ask him how he managed it, his answer is humble and jubilant, he simply did everything that his project leader taught him.

Next to the cotton field, the helpers wait for their daily harvest to be picked up. Even for the work on the fields they wear their finest dresses. This work is no work for men.

This collection point is simple, but tidy and clean. At sunset the baskets with the harvested cotton fibres are brought here. The men drink tea, the women work. Nobody would even think of taking offence in this.

The day’s work is done. Tired and satisfied, the harvest helpers return to their village. Machines, fuel and artificial fertiliser are in short supply in Kyrgyzstan. The organic cotton farmers produce their own (organic!) fertiliser.

A clear view is not as important as well used space. The cotton fibres are stuffed without a cover such as a sack or cloth onto the back seat and into the car boot. Every cubic centimetre is filled, hopefully the driver is skilled.

The conveyor belt of the Saw Gin, the ginning machine, has ceased heaping the hills of white gold for today. One evening, a night’s rest, before continuing the next day.

During the harvest it can happen that the beds are set up in the warehouse. At least this way you can be sure that nothing “disappears”.

Those travelling to Kyrgyzstan must cross high passes and drive through deep gorges. A large part of the country lies within Tian Shan, the Mountains of Heaven – breath-taking, steep and rugged.

The fall of the Soviet Union ended the planned economy in Kyrgyzstan in 1989. During this time, the kolkhozes became smallholder farms. To make a living, the people had to reorganise and find a new orientation. Since 2010, Kyrgyzstan has been a not very stable parliamentary republic, corruption is widespread. 37% of the people live below the poverty line. The north is richer than the south. Jalalabad lies in the south-west of the country, near the border to Uzbekistan. The climate is extreme: here you have icy winters and very hot summers. The vegetation period is very short - also for cotton.

Map of Kyrgyzstan – cultivation of organic cotton at the foot of the Kyrgyz mountain range.

Organic cotton for Cotonea textiles from Kyrgyzstan in Asia – almost 4,500 km away.

It was a little stroke of luck, that Cotonea was a partner of this cotton project practically from the start. Although we did not collect the first three harvests during this time of change, we could add our knowledge and experience to this project from the beginning. The first “real” organic cotton harvest was brought in in 2007 and delivered to Cotonea at the beginning of 2008. The harvest only weighed just about 40 tonnes. But it was a start. Despite many setbacks, it has been possible over the years to consistently improve the quality and to produce good organic cotton. The farmers can rely on us buying the cotton from them, which is a big advantage for them.

The journey from Germany takes about two days. The journey by car from the Kyrgyz capital Bishkek to Jalalabad is long: 600 kilometres on the curvy M41, nine hours’ drive through the deserted steppe. On mountain passes you travel at a height of 3,500 metres through the 5000 metres high Kyrgyz mountains. But this journey is worth it, as this way a personal, trusting relationship is built with the local organic farmers, and we get a clear impression of the possibilities, the quality and the purity of our organic cotton.

Cotonea's Organic Cotton from Kyrgyzstan (2009–2026)

Supporting Organic Farmers